Sorry about the delay, the problem is when you take 5 weeks off work they seem to want to work you to the bone when you get back!!
Where were we? I had a plan, the paperwork and a bike. But I had no equipment, and more importantly nowhere to put the equipment even if I had it! Time for more research.
First the bike. Those of you in the know are aware that there are a number of companies that make equipment for "overlanding" on bikes. As with anything, sorting through the huge amount of information and opinion is quite a task. I decided that I needed to:
1. Make the bike more rugged for off road riding.
2. Have somewhere secure to put my posessions.
3. Increase the fuel range, as there are large distances between fuel stops in some of the countries I was planning on going through.
Tougher footpegs, gear lever and rear brake lever were required together with handlebar risers to make standing up more comfortable. New tyres were neeeded, a set of "knobblies" from Continental would fit the bill.
I decided on aluminium panniers for the bike, as they can be locked (useful for keeping light fingered members of the community from pilfering your stuff!). They would also protect the bike and my legs in the event of a fall (something that I saw as inevitable).
I also decided to get a long range fuel tank for the bike. Although this was a rather expensive option I figured that it was better than having a number of jerry cans dangling off the back of the bike as I sped across the desert like Lawrence of Arabia! (It also had the advantage of making the bike look better!)
For navigation assistance I would require a GPS together with a mount to attach it to the bike.
With my shopping list decided I set to work ordering the bits. It was 3 months before the off date, plenty of time! Or so I thought!....
I managed to get hold of most of the bits pretty easily, but 4 weeks before the date I was due to leave I still had not received my panniers and fuel tank! As each promised delivery date came and went I began to get worried, and I was tearing my hair out with frustration. Everything that I had read about preparing a bike for a major overland trip had been categorical about two things:
1. Never make major alterations to your bike immediately before a trip.
2. Always find time to have a trial run out on the bike before you set off to iron out any last minute problems.
It was becoming increasingly likely that I was going to break both of these cardinal sins!!
Finally, three weeks before I was due to leave, the panniers and tank arrived. All I had to do was to fit them! As I started to dismantle my 5 month old bike I wondered if I had gone completely nuts!
Would it ever go back together again, and even if it did go back together would it work, or would I be setting off on my travels on my bicycle instead? With the bike in bits the latter option seemed a distinct possibility!
Work commitments conspired to limit the time that I had at home and with 10 days to go the fuel tank was still unpainted! I rushed down to my local paintshop (Briley Coachworks in Goudhurst, Kent) to ask advice on spray paint for plastic. I obviously portrayed the image of some poor lost soul who was out of his depth and completely clueless, because by the end of my sorry tale the owner of the paint shop had said that he would spray them for me for free!! I could have whooped for joy! In one moment my despair had vanished and been replaced by optimism again! Maybe I would still leave on time!
24 hours later I had the tanks back , they looked excellent. More late nights in the garage saw the tanks and panniers fitted, and then a few days later I had finally wired in a power supply for the GPS, and sorted out a charging system for all the electrical gizmos that I was taking. Five days before my departure date I was finished, all completely untested, but I was finished! Two days before I left I filled the fuel tanks for the first time....they worked!
The bike was ready, I had all my stuff assembled (but not packed!) and I was nervous as hell.
In the meantime however, a major part of my plan had unravelled and had left me with a very big decision to make.........
It's all about the bike!
This was always going to be a nice bit: choosing a bike that was up to the job. My last bike had been a Honda CBR600, not ideally suited to the sort of trip that I was planning! Something a bit more rugged was called for.
Loads of research led to to the following conclusions:
The BMW GS1200 was nice, but I had seen McGregor and Boorman struggle with the weight of theirs. As I would be alone for a lot of the trip the thought of picking up a fully laden GS1200 was not my idea of fun! Something smaller was called for, but I needed a bike that could stand the long road bits as well. A bike in the 600cc range seemed to be the way ahead.
After a huge amount of research, and a great deal of soul searching, I decided on the BMW 650GS Dakar, a bike that seemed to do it all. I wanted one that was reasonably new to assist with reliability, but decent second hand ones seemed to be like the proverbial "rockin' horse poo". I managed to source a new one at a nearby dealer and took the plunge. A week later I was the proud owner of a shiny new bike (lucky me!).
The problem was that I now had to equip the bike. There was no doubt that the bike in standard form was more suited to road riding, but with a bit of TLC it could be "ruggedised" for the trip.
Loads more surfin' the net looking for equipment suppliers for overlanding lay ahead! Boys and their toys!!
Loads of research led to to the following conclusions:
The BMW GS1200 was nice, but I had seen McGregor and Boorman struggle with the weight of theirs. As I would be alone for a lot of the trip the thought of picking up a fully laden GS1200 was not my idea of fun! Something smaller was called for, but I needed a bike that could stand the long road bits as well. A bike in the 600cc range seemed to be the way ahead.
After a huge amount of research, and a great deal of soul searching, I decided on the BMW 650GS Dakar, a bike that seemed to do it all. I wanted one that was reasonably new to assist with reliability, but decent second hand ones seemed to be like the proverbial "rockin' horse poo". I managed to source a new one at a nearby dealer and took the plunge. A week later I was the proud owner of a shiny new bike (lucky me!).
The problem was that I now had to equip the bike. There was no doubt that the bike in standard form was more suited to road riding, but with a bit of TLC it could be "ruggedised" for the trip.
Loads more surfin' the net looking for equipment suppliers for overlanding lay ahead! Boys and their toys!!
Then came the planning......
OK. So I had a destination, Banjul, and I set departure date set of 1st November. It was now March and I had to get my guano in one pile.
Right, I was now making progress towards making the trip a reality. All I needed now was a motorcycle!
Was the route possible?......
Well, a bit of research on the net proved that it was perfectly possible to get from Kent to Banjul by tarmac via the route shown on the map, and it had been done recently. A bit more research, using Chris Scotts Sahara Overland book, gave me the possibility of mixing this route with a bit of off road in Morocco and Mauritania just to make it more interesting.
Paperwork?..... This subject is guaranteed to destroy the initial euphoria of any big trip as the quagmire of bureaucracy threatens to sap your will to live!
I had a passport already! Good news. But I would need a visa for Mauritania, this could be obtained in London.
Insurance?.... I managed to get travel insurance from a company called Trailfinders which included motorbike riding (not many insurers are happy to include proper motorbikes). As for bike insurance itself, the bike would be covered in Morocco by a Green Card from my current insurers, but in Mauritania, Senegal and The Gambia I would have to buy local insurance.
Carnet?.... On advice from others, and due to the fact that I was on a tight schedule, I got one of these from the RAC. This customs document prevents you having to pay import duty on your bike when you enter a country, and was only required for Senegal. In retrospect I could have probably got away without it.
Medical?... I would need a few jabs, and a course of malaria tablets. I put together a pretty comprehensive first aid kit with the help of a paramedic friend and a few prescriptions from my GP. The only thing I wouldn't be able to do was open heart surgery!
Right, I was now making progress towards making the trip a reality. All I needed now was a motorcycle!
In the beginning there was......
When did it all start? Was it after 6 years in the same job? Was it hearing about Ben Fogle and James Cracknell rowing across the Atlantic? Or was it just the approaching dread of a major milestone birthday? I don't know, but I needed a challenge and after watching Long Way Round, the plan began to form.
Early plans became tempered with reality, and I finally came up with the idea of a motorbike trip from my home in Kent to Banjul, the capital of Gambia. All my friends who rode bikes could not get the 4 weeks off that were required. I had to do it in 2006 (the reason will become apparent later), and so it was either shelve the plan (I could hear the screams of another dream dying!) or bite the bullet and do it solo.
It had to be done, solo it was.
Early plans became tempered with reality, and I finally came up with the idea of a motorbike trip from my home in Kent to Banjul, the capital of Gambia. All my friends who rode bikes could not get the 4 weeks off that were required. I had to do it in 2006 (the reason will become apparent later), and so it was either shelve the plan (I could hear the screams of another dream dying!) or bite the bullet and do it solo.
It had to be done, solo it was.
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